This Butterfly knot will accommodate a load in any direction, and is used mostly in outdoor and boating situations, but also could be used as a paddling knot. It's used for securing a loop or many loops in the middle of a rope. Great for mountain climbing and canoeing.
Mountain climbers use the Butterfly knot for tying-in the middle climber when traveling three to a rope. Also useful for making non-slip loops in the middle of a rope to attach carabiners to provide purchase points for a winch line – essential in canoe rescue work. It can take a load in any of the three directions, independently or together. The knot can also be used to isolate a damaged section of a rope.
1. Twist the rope into the shape of an "8".
2. Fold the top down to the bottom...
3. And up and out through the lower opening in the 8.